SWAZILAND

Blesbok in Malolojati Nature Preserve, Swaziland

From Kruger Park, Curtis and Sheri rolled on down to the kingdom of Swaziland (a separate country within South Africa). A hilly windy road brought us through forest plantations and cane fields to the town of Pigg’s Peak. We stocked up at the Boxer Superstore; shopping to the piped in tunes of Barry Mannilow and Karen Carpenter. Folks didn’t appear particularly well off, but they were lively and colorful. Sheri wanted salad dressing, there were only three bottles. Compare that to the USA. We were the only white people. We kept going and arrived at Malolotja Nature Preserve. It is situated at about 5000 feet elevation and there was a good chill in the air. We bought a load of eucalyptus firewood from a roadside vender (for $1.90), and set up our tent in a campground set in rocky outcroppings on a hillside surrounded by open wind swept grasslands. Break out the down jackets and wind stopper fleece. We had our own little braai (BBQ) in our granite stone wall surrounded fire pit. June 21, the first day of winter, and it felt like it. 

Camping in Malolojati Nature Preserve

We hiked around the hilly open grasslands. Next day we rolled on down to the capital of Swaziland called Mbabane. We stopped in for a fine café latte at a shiny mall where trendy teenagers were queing up to catch the latest Men in Black movie at 9:30 in the morning!

 

Malolojati Nature Preserve

We hiked around Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary and saw antelope and some crocs, but the main attraction was a controlled burn that became an out of control burn. The fire ran through grasslands and stands of eucalyptus. The preserve workers seemed unconcerned but an antique fire truck did respond and finally a helicopter showed up and dipped water out of a croc infested lake and dropped it on the fire. We speculated what would happen if a croc was scooped up and dropped on the fire – croc drop. 

What's that in the water?

Sheri climbing a wildlife fence in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary with fire in the background

We stayed at Malandela’s place which is an artsy stuccoed curvilinear thatched roof complex set at the edge of a sugarcane farm. Its home to a popular pub, restaurant, outdoor music venue, B&B, and three fair trade art / craft shops. Sheri treated Curtis to a fine T-bone steak and a bottle of pinotage wine on his birthday. Apparently the South Africans have developed the pinotage grape which has the smoothness of a pinot noir and a little of the bite of a cabernet.

Malandela's Place

Sheri with some local handcrafted gifts

Malandela's Place - House On Fire music venue

Next day we headed south passing through the main city in Swaziland called Manzini. It was busy and more like what Curtis thought Africa would be like. Shabby dingy buildings and lots of open shacks along the road selling everything; dirt and litter and crowds of people with bundles on their heads running across the street with the odd goat thrown in for color. We turned south and headed towards South Africa. Bye bye to the red dirt roads of Swaziland. As a little send off; at the border a disheveled man was walking around with his shirt open and his fly undone exposing himself. There were dozens of police standing around but no one did anything.

Winter Flowers