ETOSHA, NAMIBIA

Etosha, Namibia

We drove from Otjiwarongo north towards Etosha National Park, stopping at Outjo to have some weak coffee and baked goods at a German bakery. We entered Etosha at Anderson gate which is about midway on the south side of the park. Etosha is a wildlife preserve that is more than 100 years old. It is primarily situated around a dry lake bed (a pan) where natural and man made springs flow out along the south side of the lake bed. The cover is either grassy steppe or scrubby woodlands; the lake bed has no vegetation. It is dead flat. During the parchment dry winter, wildlife collects at waterholes. Our first waterhole, about 1.5 kilometers into the park, was loaded with zebra, springbok (something like antelope), and kudus (like elk with impressive cork screw horns), like hundreds of them. We drove to our camp at Okaukuejo and set up our tent. We went to the water hole which is surrounded by chalets (Chalet 34 is the one to rent). The water hole has a low stone wall along one side and a fence beyond. There were a thousand animals there; zebra, springbok, wildebeest, impala, kudu, giraffe, ostrich, etc., all coming and going, and tussling with each other’s rivals. People were sitting or strolling along and all were taking fantastic amounts of photos.

Okaukuejo Waterhole

Okaukuejo Rest Camp in central Etosha

 

Kudu

Sunset at Okaukuejo Waterhole

Okaukuejo rest camp

Our campground at Okaukuejo rest camp

Tourists at Okaukuejo waterhole

Lioness on the prowl

After a bite we drove around the west end of the pan to a water hole. As we arrived we saw a lion cub sniffing around a gnawed on rib cage along with gemsbok (like big deer with rod straight 3 foot horns) and springbok and some ostriches. The cub disappeared into some grass and finally after looking through our binoculars we were able to determine there were three cubs and at least three female lions. The females were just lying around and the cubs would bug them until they lifted their heads or rolled over to nurse and a leg would stick up above the grass. Happily we rolled back to camp where they close the gate and you are locked in behind animal proof fences until 6:30 am. We went back to the camp waterhole and it was surprising dead with only some eagles and jackals and finally six giraffe showed up. Later we were cooking dinner when our friendly neighbor heard a noise, grabbed his camera and ran off. We thought about it and went after him. A herd of elephant had arrived at the waterhole and were trumpeting. The hole is lit all night and I believe some folks sat there the whole night. Shortly a black rhino showed up for a drink. We retired after shooing some jackals away from our camp and sometime about 4:00 am Curtis was awaking by a fantastically loud sound even though he had ear plugs in. Lions were roaring outside of the fence behind our tent. We pulled on some clothes and went out but they had moved off into the darkness still roaring. Next day at dawn we rolled out of the camp and headed towards the roaring but nothing. Slowly cruising on we came upon two female lions laying in the road. Slowly and grudgingly they got up and moved off into the stickery brush. We visited several waterholes until at one a male lion was napping in the grass. Herds of springbok, zebra and gemsbok where moving in and out and when that bad boy would raise his head they would sprint for the hills.

Gemsbok and Springbok on Etosha Pan

Curtis at Etosha Pan

Our VW on Etosha Pan

Sunrise near Okaukuejo

We took a break and were back at it in the late afternoon when we spotted three female lions lying in a draw. About a hundred springbok and zebra were moseying their way to some shallow water. The lions got interested and crouched and got behind cover and one disappeared to reappear on the herd’s flank. Her head would pop up or we would see her back zigzagging through the grass. Something happened and the herd sprinted at top speed the wrong way and out of sight. The flanker slowly drug her butt back to the others, had a huge drink of water and they all flopped down in the dust for a nap. Next day we were at it again, predawn start but not much was happening at the waterholes we visited. We stopped by Nuamses waterhole. There was a small tour bus there. The Rasta man driver waved us over. Leopard he said. We got into a good position. The leopard was sitting on a grassy rock edge above the water. The bus rolled out. One minute later an unlucky springbok choose to arrive at the water hole exactly where the leopard was sitting. What we saw was the head of a springbok popping over the top of a bush, one second later the leopard was on its throat and they slammed down behind the bush. They popped up fighting three times and then it was over.  In the later afternoon we were driving around and there were no animals. We paused under a tree and had a nap (like the animals). We mustered some energy and headed back to our camp at Halali. On the way a male lion popped his head up out of the grass. With low sunlight he stood up giving us a wonderful profile and moseyed off.

Sunset at Moringa Waterhole

Leopard moments before it killed a Springbok

Our Camp at Halali Rest Camp

Elephants love mud

Dust bath

Kuri Bustard bird

elephants having a great time

Elephants fighting at Halali waterhole

Viewing area at Halali rest camp

Black Rhino and Elephant

Our neighbor at the campground was a friendly South African nicknamed Fricky. He had served in the army fighting in Namibia 40 years ago. He had a super off-road trailer; all diamond plate, pop top tent, storage bins for everything, electric system, foldout kitchen, and built in bar. He was leaving and stopped by our camp and gave us some springbok steaks. We braaied (BBQ) them and gobbled them down just like the animals.

Driving out of Etosha it was very dusty. Near the exit a cheetah was prowling around some springbok. At the exit there was some mix up about fees and we had to pay some more, possibly a scam but overall Etosha was an outstanding wildlife viewing experience.

Springbok

Elephant completely pissed off at a very dumb tourist